ask Dave West: The Jewelry Expert

Palladium

Hi Dave

Firstly, apologies if you have been repeatedly asked these questions.I have an 18K white gold engagement ring and thankfully to date, I have had no problems with it turning yellow.However, I am a nurse and not able to wear my ring for work.My partner and I get married next year and I am in the process of considering wedding bands.  

Given the problems with white gold, I wanted to ask your opinion on Palladium?  I am able to wear a plain wedding band for work and given the frequent hand washing and use of alcohol gel, in your opinion would Palladium be more hard wearing?Many thanks and I look forward to hearing from you.

Best regards, Lu

Hi Lu,

Although I’m not a huge fan of mixing metals in a wedding set – a palladium wedding band to wear at work is, I think, a great idea.

Both palladium and platinum are white metals that are not usually plated – so there is no color difference as the rings wear to worry about. White gold is an alloy of gold (yellow) and other metals that are added to “bleach” the color out – but it is impossible to bleach all the yellow color out of the alloy – although some higher quality alloys do come pretty close. To make the white gold alloy appear whiter the jewelry is often plated with rhodium or occasionally with palladium or platinum. When the plating begins to wear off and the actual slightly yellowish color of the white gold alloy begins to show it is often confused with or referred to the metal “changing” color. 

Both palladium and platinum are durable long lasting metals and many customers assume that means that both are also very hard. In actuality both metals are relatively soft and scratch and bend easier than white gold alloys which tend to be harder and stiffer.Over time both metals develop a nice unique patina to them that I find attractive – but not everyone would agree.

The other advantages to palladium and platinum are the most common alloy is 95% pure (there are newer lower quality alloys being produced so it is important to check) and both are hypoallergenic – perfect for a nurse.I hope I’ve been helpful – if you have any further questions please feel free to ask.

Dave

 

Platinum Plated Sterling Silver

Hi Dave...My fiance and I were looking for a wedding ring for myself, and I have found one that I like. The ring I found says that it is Platinum Over Sterling Silver. Here is the link so you can see the ring. http://www.palmbeachjewelry.com/products/detail-Platinum-Over-Sterling-Silver-DiamonUltra-Cubic-Zirconia-Wedding-Ring-Set-47624.cfm My questions are; Will the platinum strengthen the rings finish and make it last longer? Will I have to get it re-plated often? and how expensive is it generally, to get a ring of this size re-plated if necessary? I am not a person who needs real diamonds or high priced jewelery to be happy, as long as it looks good and is of good quality, that's all that matters to me. In your opinion is this ring I'm considering, good quality and price? Best regards, Michelle

Hello Michelle,

The platinum plating will help extend the life of the finish a bit - but it will not avoid the inevitable.

The rings will still need to be re- finished and re-plated. How often is hard to say it - it depends on how the individual wears the ring and under what conditions.

Sterling Silver is a fine metal for fashion rings but I would not recommend it for a wedding set - I would stick with diamonds and gold.

Take Care, Dave  

 

 

 

 

Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation 2011

For the last 12 years I have, in the memory of my children, designed and crafted a piece of jewelry to be raffled of at the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundations, Rochester NY chapter’s annual gala on October 22^nd.

Raffel tickets are available for $15 each 3 for $40 by calling JDRF at 585-546-1390 or stopping by / calling the store.

 

 

This year’s piece, 3/4Ct of Diamonds in white gold, is called the “The Twist” -the inspiration for which came from playing with a broken rubber band.

Dave 

 

Palladium Testing

"ANYONE HELP!!!! I purchased this dish that I am guessing is a ash tray that is marked 99.99 Fine Palladium 1923. It also has a makers mark that is a capital A. I buy gold platinum etc..... So i have testing acids for 10k 14k 18k 22k Platinum and Silver tester. The only information I have found is that Aqua Regina(which I think is one of my acids) and Iodine are the only 2 easy tests you can do. The only reaction I have found is after a while the 22k acid will slowly start to bubble-Keep in mind is doesnt really dissolve it but just bubbles on it. I tried iodine but it was stuff you get at a grocery store and I am almost positive it is not pure enough. There is no color variation, I have scratched it(pretty deep) with no change in appearance. If this is real(which I believe it is) I knocked this out of the park but I want to make sure It is real before I make a fool of my self. It weighs I believe 118+ DWT from what I was told. It was to heavy for my scale so I can not veryify." Dan

Hello Dan,

If you have a dish or ashtray made out of pure palladium from the twenties it is possible that you have something that is more valuable than the current scrap price.

Period hollowware and flatware are not my area of knowledge but it may be worth looking into.

Testing acids – which I do not recommend anyone use without the proper training and safety precautions - are one way to test for gold and other precious metals. To test for palladium you rub the item on the test stone and then apply a drop of Aqua-Regia – if the item is palladium the test mark should turn red.

You can do a test for palladium using iodine – however (as far as I am aware) this is a test for 950 Palladium (or 95% pure) the alloy most commonly used in jewelry today. I frankly don’t know how reliable this test is or what kind, if any, reaction one can expect in testing for pure palladium – I have never used this method. The test itself is very easy – just place a drop of iodine on a clean surface of the piece - as the iodine dries the area tested should turn black.

There are also reasonably priced electronic testers available for precious metals – which if you are buying scrap may be worth the investment. In the end though it sounds like you may have to have a professional take a look at your dish and do the testing.

Dave

David W. Nytch CGA   www.westandcompany.com  

Red Diamonds

“Hello, I have been searching for someone who is very familiar with diamonds and my search has lead me to you!  I just have a few questions about a stone that I purchased online.  I know that this may sound a little far fetched but I really have a desire to know exactly what I have.  The stone that I purchased did not cost me much at all.  I was told it is a RED Diamond ... I know, it most likely is not ... it would be like winning the lotto for someone.  I did have a gemologist take a look at it and he was not optimistic at all.  I have not had an appraisal of the stone as of yet but would like one done.  Have you ever had the opportunity to study a red diamond?  I am curious because if I have an appraisal done I want to be 100% sure of what it is I have.  I learned that the Smithsonian Museum purchased a diamond (The Moussaieff Red or aka Red Shield) that was once believed to be a Red Garnet mistakenly. I know that chances are that this stone also claimed as a very old one from Israel is probably not what I would hope it to be but crazier things in life happen and you just never know.  Do you think this is something you can appraise for me with 100% confidence or if not do you know of someone who could?  Thanks so much for taking the time to read my e-mail and I hope to hear back from you soon,” Dawn

 

Hello Dawn,    
Thank you for your inquiry – you have touched on a fascinating subject.
Many people are surprised to learn that diamonds occur naturally in a greater range of color than most gems – almost any color you can think of.

Natural colored diamonds are VERY rare and red diamonds are the rarest of all – a majority of jewelers have never even seen one. Natural red diamonds are highly sought after and command among the highest prices per carat.

I have had the opportunity to study a couple of natural red diamonds over the years - and they are amazing! You are absolutely right to be viewing the situation with a great deal of skepticism. A quick search of the internet yielded me all sorts of questionable results. Mostly what I found where color enhanced or irradiated diamonds (the diamond itself is natural but the color is not. There are several techniques used to color diamonds irradiation is one.) that where not being properly disclosed as such.

Color enhanced diamonds are, affordable, available in many colors and have increased awareness of colored diamonds (both natural and enhanced) as well as becoming quite popular.

You mentioned that a gemologist looked at your stone but you did not say how closely he examined it and if he: thought it was a diamond but the origin of its color was suspect or he thought it was something else entirely. My advice, giving what you have told me, is to have the stone examined by a trained gemologist to determine if it is in fact a diamond (this should be a pretty easy separation). And if it is a diamond what his/her opinion is as to the origin of it’s color. As a general rule the color of enhanced colored diamonds are not as “pure” as those of natural fancy colored diamonds - although exceptions are possible.     
At this point you should have a pretty good idea of what you have. If there was still any question the stone would have to be sent to the Gemological Institute of America’s laboratory for a definitive report on the origin of its color.

I can, if you would like, provide these services for you or if you are not in my area I can try to help recommend someone.

Thank You, Dave

PS – I would be curious to know where you heard that the Moussaieff Red Diamond belonged to the Smithsonian and was confused for a garnet. The Moussaieff never belonged to the Smithsonian, although it was exhibited there, and have never of heard it being mistaken for a garnet. In this day and age that would be a particularly egregious error.

David W. Nytch, CGA  www.westandcompany.com
 

A Piece of American History

I am, from time to time, asked to help identify and authenticate antique jewelry.

Although this is not really my area of expertise, these inquiries are always of interest to me; being a bit of a history buff in general and the history of jewelry and the crafts specifically, is, not surprisingly, one of my very favorite subjects.

Not long ago I received an e-mail asking for help authenticating a medal that if it is original, dates from the American Revolution. Any military medal from the Revolution would be facinating – but this medal is linked to the capture of the infamous Benedict Arnold – a story of politics, intrigue and betrayal. 

Below is the original inquiry, copied with the author’s permission, and my responses.

 

Dear Mr. West, 

My name is John Paulding Farnham 111 and I am the great grandson of the jewelry designer Paulding Farnham of Tiffany fame. I have been in the process of researching a particular family related artifact for the past year and I am in need of a recommendation to an 18h century metal specialist in order to determine if the artifact was produced by the use of the repose process or if it was produced in solid silver. Let me be more specific as I am sure by now you are interested but skeptical. The family history goes back to pre revolutionary war. My name sake, Major John Paulding , was awarded the Fidelity Medal for is capture o Major Andre and the exposure of the Benedict Arnold conspiracy, (there are many links to research the topic an quick Google search will fill you in on the story). I have attached one such link and two pictures of the medal. 

In short I have inherited a Medal which is in every way identical to the original which has a history of being in and out of the families hands through out the years. I have been in contact with a couple of auctioneers that have put the burden on me to do the research on the medal and to definitively prove that it is the original and not one of the two original copies of the medal, that where produced for Major Paulding’s second and third eldest sons. In my search I have found the only true description of the medal, (the link is provided above), in which it state that the original medal was produced by the use of the repose process. I have been searching the internet for a professional in the field of jewelry that may be able to examine and or test the medal in order to prove one way or another if the piece I own was produced by the use of repose or if it is a solid silver piece.

I apologize fro the long winded explanation, but its not you average request and I wanted to explain in detail my situation in hopes that at the very least you may be able to connect me with a colleague that could help me in my research and authentication.

Regards, JP Farnham 

Hello JP,

Thanks for e-mailing me – what a great story! I am actually familiar with the capture of Major Andre - being a bit of an American history buff.

I certainly can be of help in identifying the techniques (repousse’ – shaping the metal from the back of the piece and chasing – the same from the front and would be used for finer details) used to make the medal, if it is a two part piece or if it is a single casting – all easy enough.

To give the authentication the “weight” needed , however,  you need more than the identification of the processes used to make the metal – many jewelry making techniques were already ancient in the 18th century and are still used today virtually unchanged for thousands of years.

You need, as you have already suggested, an expert in the identifying characteristics of work done in the later 18^th century as well as one familiar with what to look for in spotting a forgery done at a later date. Unfortunately I do not personally know of someone who would have these credentials.

The best place for you to look, and I am happy to help if you wish, would be museums and possibly universities that have collections of early American jewelry, hollowware and flatware.  

Although this may sound a little “out there” this may be the kind of thing that would be of interest to PBS’s History Detectives – you have a great story to tell, they do the foot work and you get some publicity that can’t hurt if you are trying to sell the medal.

If I can be of further help please let me know – I find this fascinating and would like to be a part of the process. Also – could I post this e-mail on my blog? It may be of some help.

Take Care, Dave   

David W. Nytch, CGA  www.westandcompany.com

Are Jewelry Warranties worth it?

I have been fielding a lot of inquiries from concerned people whose extended jewelry warranties are no longer valid – the company having gone out of business. This got me thinking about extended warranties in general and if they are worth the money.

 

There is a lot I like about extended or lifetime jewelry warranties - most importantly they require regular cleaning and inspections, usually every 6 months to 1 year. I know this sounds like a pain in the neck – but regular cleaning, checkups and basic maintenance are essential. Most of the problems I see every day would be avoided if the jewelry had been properly maintained.

 

Some extended warranties include basic service work that is needed from time to time such as sizing, re plating (rhodium) white gold and stone tightening. Paid for individually these services can quickly add up to or exceed the cost of the warranty.

 

Frankly - I don’t think anyone should have to PAY EXTRA for ANY warranty or basic services when making such a major investment. (In the interest of full disclosure: I offer a very completive lifetime warranty, with all basic services included, at no additional charge.) But an extended warranty that includes basic services like ring sizing and rhodium plating is probably worth the cost of the contract.

 

Extended jewelry warranties may have similarities but they are not all the same. It is very important that you read and understand all the details of the contract. It’s the details that determine if the warranty is worth the cost or a waste of money.

 

There are two general misunderstandings when it comes to extended warranties.

 

First - it is very important to know that at some stores miss just ONE scheduled clean and check and the warranty is VOID and will be useless when you need it most.

 

Second - every extended jewelry warranty I have seen excludes “normal wear and tear” and “abuse”. The line between “normal wear and tear” and “abuse” and what is covered in the contract can be somewhat subjective so it is important to know upfront what the store considers normal wear and abuse. Don’t assume that damage caused while rock climbing or a ring dropped in the disposal will be covered under an extended warranty.

 

An extended warranty, when it is included in the purchase, can be an indication of the stores willingness to stand behind their product as well as their commitment to their customers. Too often however extended warranties have become nothing more than an add on sale for some stores with enough loopholes and strings attached as to be virtually worthless. There are exceptions to everything so this is one area where due diligence before the purchase is especially important.  

 

 

Finally an extended or lifetime jewelry warranty is not a replacement for jewelry insurance. Extended warranties do not cover loss (mysterious disappearance), theft or as I mentioned above, damage due to abuse – all of which are covered on a jewelry policy. You can purchase a jewelry rider on your home owners or renter’s policy or buy a stand alone jewelry insurance for a very reasonable cost. 

 

David West Nytch, CGA  www.westandcompany.com

 

Rare Diamond Inclusions

“I inherited my father's diamond ring and am having it re-sized (in this case made smaller). In the examination of the diamond by the jeweler it was noted that there was an inclusion centered in the diamond. This is what appears to be a cloud inclusion with a very distinctive cube shape. My question is, do inclusions ever increase the value of a diamond based upon their rarity? This is about a 1 carat diamond.”

Keith

 

Great question Keith!

 

The size, shape, number, type and placement of inclusions or clarity characteristics (some times called “flaws”) are unique to every diamond and are often referred to as the stones “fingerprint”. While most diamonds will have one or more different types of inclusions the possibilities for nature are endless.

The distinctive clarity characteristics of diamonds are always fascinating to me and there are always collectors and scientists interested in such things – so the potential for an extremely rare inclusion(s) to increase the value of the diamond exists – but that in of itself would be rare.

 

A couple of years ago Sotheby’s had a 3.05Ct. heart shaped fancy yellow diamond with an cross shaped inclusion at it’s center. Apparently this diamond generated quite a bit of interest, especially among Christian groups, and was expected to sell for more than it’s asking price. Although I never did find out what the diamond actually sold for – it is a great example of an inclusion that is both rare and unique enough to be the determining factor in the value of the diamond.

 

Being both a Blake Edwards and Peter Sellers fan I cannot not resist bring up the

wholly fictitious pink diamond that has an inclusion that looks like a leaping panther.

This video clip doesn’t directly relate – but its’ my favorite form the series.  

 

 

 

David W. Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com       

Lost or Stolen Jewelry

I received this comment the other day and the writer asks a good question about what to do if your jewelry is lost or stolen. The following is the readers comment and my response.

“My wife and I recently returned from Phoenix and after a couple of days she realized her jewelry bag that she was traveling with was nowhere to be found. She believes the jewelry was in her bag up until we got to the rental car return. She had in the bag a vintage platinum and diamond necklace, platinum and diamond bracelet with heart shapes, 2 platinum rings(one with a floral pattern and the other here wedding band with filigree work on the sides) and several pearl necklaces not to mention some random costume jewelry. Does anyone know how best to track down lost/stolen jewelry? Any recommendations on who to call in Phoenix and or Dallas to track down such items? Regards”  

The first thing I would do is check with the hotel and car rental company to see if the jewelry had been turned in by anyone. If you believe that the jewelry was stolen – I would contact the local police department and file a report so that they can begin to investigate. It has been my experience that the police do a very good job of contacting local jewelers and pawn shops to see if anyone has tried to sell, or to keep an eye out for someone attempting to sell, jewelry that has been reported stolen. I would not recommend that you contact jewelers and pawn shops yourself as the police know how to deal with these situations. You can also try the Jeweler’s Security Alliance stolen jewelry web site. 

Unfortunately jewelry that is stolen or simply lost (sometimes referred to as mysterious disappearance) is a relatively common occurrence – and one I always hate hearing about.
Here are a few thought on how to keep these situations to a minimum.

First and foremost – have your valuable jewelry properly documented, photographed and insured.
This won’t stop you from being robbed and you still may misplace your jewelry – but you will have proper technical descriptions (that can help to identify a specific piece) and photos which make the search for and replacement of much easier. 

When you take off your jewelry at home always put it in the same place – at home my wife and I have a little dish on the kitchen desk. You would be surprised how often jewelry is accidently thrown out, put down someplace odd and misplaced to be found years later, or ends up falling in the disposal.

If you are traveling keep the jewelry you are not wearing as close to you as possible - a purse or a carry on that does not leave your side is best. Don’t put jewelry in a bag that goes in the overhead and never pack anything you care about in a suitcase that is headed for the luggage compartment. If you are driving never leave jewelry in the car when you pull over at a rest stop or get a bite to eat.

When at a hotel don’t leave jewelry in your suitcase pocket or around the room – they are not ideal - but the little safe in some rooms or the hotels safety deposit boxes are better than nothing.

Never Ever – take off your jewelry in a public place and lay it down – it is downright depressing the number of people who will “seize the opportunity” before you even know what happened. 

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com   

  

Designing Jewelry Part 3

As I was saying in my last post – every designer and artist has a unique way of approaching a project. I believe that this individual interpretation of inspiration creates an artists core "style". No matter how varied an artist’s work may be – I have always found that there is a recognizable "style" underlying what may appear to be unrelated aesthetics.

I recently became acquainted with a designer whose work I admire – Ji Hwang.

Her organic jewelry designs are not only graceful but I think what also attracted me to them is that they are so utterly different than my own. Ji’s work seems to "flow" from one shape to another – where as mine tends to be "built". I was quite surprised to discover that Ji’s earlier works where in many ways similar to my own. And while the end results are entirely different there are identifiable consistencies between her earlier and later works - as there are with my own.

Below is an earlier piece by Ji Hwang and a very old piece of mine.

Followed by a recent piece by Ji and one by myself.  

 

   

  

 

 

 

 

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com